FAQs

What is acrylic?

Acrylic, scientifically known as poly(methyl) methacrylate (PMMA), is a versatile, lightweight thermoplastic often used in sheet form to be used in a multitude of applications. It can come in various sizes, thicknesses, opacity levels and colour. It was first produced in 1928 by Rohm and Haas Company under the trademark Plexiglas as an impact resistant alternative to glass for airplane canopies in World War II.

Is acrylic plastic?

Yes and no. All acrylic is plastic, but not all plastic is acrylic. While acrylic is a thermoplastic and very similar to polycarbonate, it doesn't contain the potentially harmful substance bisphenol-A (BPA) that is found in polycarbonate. It is the more economical option when tensile strength, bend strength, transparency, polishability, and UV tolerance are more important than impact strength, chemical resistance, and heat resistance. This makes it the easier choice for laser cutting.

Cast Acrylic vs. Extruded Acrylic

Acrylic can be produced in two versions: cast and extruded. Cast acrylic is created by mixing liquid ingredients into a mould made from two sheets of glass and then submerged in warm water so the process of polymerization can take place. Extruded acrylic is manufactured in a continuous production process where pellets fed into a feed hopper are driven through a heated barrel to melt and be pushed through die lips to create a molten sheet that is then cooled by passing over rollers. Because of the high-volume manufacturing technique, extruded tends to be less expensive than cast acrylic.

Should I be using cast acrylic or extruded?

It really depends on what your project is demanding of you. Cast acrylics produce a cleaner edge when lasering and have a whiter, more solid look when engraved. Extruded is easier to heat bend, but will create burred edges if lasered and a grey colour when engraved. Cast comes in a variety of colours and thicknesses, whereas extruded is limited in both areas due to the nature of the production process.

3M 300LSE Tape or 3M 467MP Tape?

Now that your idea is designed and you're ready to cut, the next big decision is what tape should you be using on your acrylic. Both the tapes we supply are double-sided so either will work, but there are some key differences between the two. 300LSE works best on mirrored acrylic, whereas 467MP is best used on non-mirrored acrylic. Of the two, 300LSE is a beast when it comes to adhesion. Once it's stuck, it's stuck so make sure you're happy with its placement before pressing it down into its final resting spot. 467MP allows you a little more wiggle room once it's placed so it's still possible to remove and reposition without too much effort. The strength of adhesion you'll require will depend on your project so use your discretion when it comes time to picking your tape.

Leatherette? What's that?

Leath-er-ette: noun. Imitation leather.

Faux leather. Pleather. Synthetic leather. It might not be real, but that could be a good thing. For starters, it contains no animal by-products and is typically made from natural or synthetic cloth fibres which are coated in PVC or polyurethane. This makes it cheaper than real leather and won't fade with age. Though not as durable, leatherette is less porous which means it's waterproof and easier to clean with a damp cloth.

At this point you're probably wondering if you can use your laser on this. The answer is yes! Because of the synthetic composition, leatherette works very well with laser processing, especially with CO2 lasers. Cutting and engraving are both possible with leatherette. The settings will vary between lasers and the colour being engraved will need to be factored in as well. Dark colours absorb the laser beam better making it more efficient, whereas light colours are more reflective and will take longer to process. Be sure to always test on sample pieces to get the optimal results. Correct laser settings will give you a clear visible mark without damaging the material. Once you've finished, you can use 3M tape or fabric glue to adhere your leatherette pieces to your projects to give them a textured feel and timeless look.

My acrylic is bowed. What should I do?

Sometimes during transport or how it's stored, some acrylics will warp due to a number of conditions. Other times it's due to the manufacturing process and the high amounts of craft glitter cast within the acrylic itself. This is not a defect, but just the nature of acrylic. Luckily there are some easy solutions that still make the acrylic usable! You can:

• Cut the sheet in half and use the halved sheets as that typically helps create a flatter surface area to work with.
• Use a blow dryer or heat press to heat the acrylic a bit and then gently bend it the opposite way of the bow. You can also flatten it by stacking it under a heavier pile of acrylic for a short while.
• Use magnets or pins in your honeycomb to hold each edge down.

If you are storing your acrylic sheets by standing them upright, try not to lean them at more than a 10° angle as this will create bowing of the acrylic, especially on larger sheets. If space permits, store them flat with the smaller pieces on top of the larger pieces.

Oh no! My masking is bubbled/crinkled!

This happens from time to time and isn't a cause for concern. As masking—paper or plastic—is used as a protective layer to protect the acrylic from scratches, a number of factors including temperature, less adhesion from the finish, and humidity may cause the masking to behave this way. We recommend burnishing/flattening the masking down to avoid the air pockets or applying new paper masking before cutting and engraving it in your laser.